Mostly drinking, with people sitting on the fountain rim rather than the terraces, a guitar or violin under the arched passage, and kids doing laps on scooters in the early evening. Probably late: quiet at ten, fuller after midnight.
Drinksfountain edge of Plaça de la Mare de Déu (the Turia fountain, west end of the square)
Almost the whole square is rented out to terraces, so the fountain's stone rim is the only place you can sit without ordering something — and it's taken every night by people with cans and takeaway from the shops on Serranos and Caballeros. It fills up properly once the waiters start stacking chairs.
drinks and food picked up on the walk in from Carrer dels Serrans or Caballeros
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Drinksaround the little fountain, Plaça del Negrito
The terraces are the smaller half of what's happening — most people stand in the open square with a drink from the bars, and the base of the fountain with the little statue is the seat everyone wants. It's a late plaza: half empty at ten, full after midnight, and it clears fast when the terraces are called in because the neighbours are right above.
drinks carried out from the bars on the square itself
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Kids playingopen paving around the fountain, Plaça de la Mare de Déu
Early evening the flat ring around the fountain turns into a scooter and bike track — kids do laps while the parents hold a terrace table and watch from one spot. It empties again the moment the dinner hour starts.
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Playing musicthe covered arch passage between the Basilica and the Cathedral, southeast corner of Plaça de la Mare de Déu
Buskers claim the short arched passage rather than the open square, because the stone throws the sound and it's shaded all day — usually one guitar or violin at a time, and the pitch gets handed over rather than fought for. People stop at the mouth of the arch instead of in the plaza itself.
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