Mostly sitting and talking around the market and the church steps, with chess in the late afternoon, someone playing music at weekends and small kids out on the paving on Sundays; probably busiest mid-morning and after dark.
Sunday the market is closed and the whole apron turns into a scooter and bike track for small kids while the parents stand around the edge. Same square, completely different function than on a Tuesday morning.
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Late on, the recessed doorways and the low ledges along this block become seating — small groups sitting on the step with a bottle or a bocadillo, moving on when a resident needs the door. It's the spillover route out of the Cuba corner.
food from the late takeaways on the same street
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The strip of benches under the trees facing the church is where older neighbours park themselves after the market, mid-morning; by nightfall the same steps and the low church wall are teenagers and people waiting for a table nearby.
usually with a coffee or something from the market stalls
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Between about nine and one the plaza in front of the market doors is a slow traffic jam of shopping trolleys — people stop mid-crossing to talk for ten minutes, then peel off to a terrace on the edge. After the market shuts at two it empties out completely for a few hours.
the coffee stop afterwards is at the places lining the plaza edge, not inside the market
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There's near-always someone playing at the mouth of Cuba where it widens into the market square on weekend evenings — the acoustics off the facades carry, and people watch from the plaza benches rather than standing over the player.
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Do people play music here?
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